To a Long Steep Hill

 There are three things to think about when planning to walk from Plymouth to Newton Ferrers in mid-winter. The weather - obviously Finding somewhere snug to stay How to cross the river Yealm We were extremely lucky with the weather.  It had been raining in Devon relentlessly for weeks but on Saturday 17th January, the weather cleared and the sun came out.  There was one brief sharp shower around midday, but otherwise the weather was kind to us. For somewhere snug to stay, we simply rebooked the Courtyard AirBnb which we used on our abortive first attempt at this section when we both got sick and had to abandon  it.  the Courtyard was snuggish. Our lovely host, Kairen only put the heating on briefly at 6 o'clock.  There was also an oil-filled electric radiator, but it didn't heat the place enough for us elderly folk. We supplemented by turning on the oven and leaving it open.     Crossing the Yealm was another matter.  According to Be...

 Path:  "not you again" Us: "Yes, I'm afraid so" Path:  "I thought you had completed" Us: " Well almost, but you may remember that very hot Saturday back in July.  We bottled out of walking the Lulworth Ranges section .  We just thought we should do it before claiming our certificate." Path:  Get on with it then". So here we are, back in Lulworth Cove on a windy day in mid October.  We are staying with daughter Becky back in West Hill .  It's an hour and a half drive to get here.  Becky and dog Luna are walking with us.  It's low tide so we clamber over the rock cove in Lulworth Cove and head up into the ranges.  There is practically no one about and no boats in the Cove.  Very different to July. There are three big cliffs to climb on this section.  We are very glad we didn't try to do it in the heat of that July Saturday.  We make good time and get to Kimmeridge Bay ahead of our 17.00 rendezvous with Becky's husban...

 We make the most of our room at The Sandbanks Hotel.  It has a balcony overlooking Poole Harbour and a bathroom with an actual bath and a heated towel rail which actually works. I have a 'full Dorset' breakfast which makes a welcome change from the Durdle Door continental breakfasts. We stop for petrol and coffee at Winchester. It is raining.

 So this is it.  Our very last day walking the Southwest Coast Path. We have chosen a scorchingly hot day.  We are not the only people heading for Studland.  First evidence of this comes when we arrive at the NT car park at Shell Bay where we are meeting our taxi.  It is already full. I begin to panic.  There's no way we can just park on the road.  It is lined with parked cars for miles back.  In the end I squeeze next to some refuse bins.  They are overflowing and stink - but I reason that they are unlikely to be emptied on a Sunday. Our driver says he has never seen anything like the crowds.  (Shout out for Swanage Taxis, they have been great).  He drops us at the exact entrance to the path in the Ballard estate at Swanage and we are off. It's a bit of a climb up Ballard Down, but there's a cool breeze.  Soon we are coasting down the grassy slope to Old Harry Rocks.  I say to Chris: "This is how I want to remember it all...

 We did intend to do the path through the ranges today. I cannot tell a lie - unlike some coast path Walkers.  It is just too bloody hot. But we do intend to  come back and fill in this gap and er.. one or two others. We began  our rest day with a delightful swim in the  Cove.  Very crowded, but as we literally jumped in the water and came away, the throngs didn't bother us.  After a nice coffee we drove to The Smugglers for a long lunch. Then we visited a  church which Chris wanted to see. Then it was on to the deserted village of Tyneham. The people were heaved out by the army in 1943. There will be pictures.  A lovely restful day. We don't feel guilty at missing the ranges at all, do we?

 Oaiab 4 going down steps from Worth Matravers Chris is behind me and calls out "Mike, glasses" They have fallen out of my pocket.  If she had been ahead, the specs would have been lost.  I go off on one about old age. Chris is having none of it. "You just need to take more care. It's nothing to do with your age". It's another scorching day, Temperature soon hits 28, We are saved by a cooling breeze from the sea. Up country, as we West Country folk say, the thermometer is hitting 34. It is easy walking. There will be a picture.  But wait. It isn't is it?  It can't be.  After 600 miles - it is.  I have my first blister.  I carry a minimal first aid kit - a bandage, elastoplast and antiseptic cream.  The tiny blister is soon covered up. Raynor Winn has published a rebuttal. It is quite convincing.  Becky texts that she is confused.  The story has a way to go.  There is no shade. We eat our lunch in the blazing sun. There is a mom...